The Australian commando who fell to his death during a training exercise on Aoraki Mount Cook in New Zealand on Wednesday was an instructor, a rescuer says.
Sergeant Gary Francis, 44, had more experience than the rest of the group combined, Alpine Guides ski guide Ben Taylor said.
Mr Taylor, who helped recover the body, said Sergeant Francis had been probing for crevasses on an ice bridge. The snow collapsed around him about 1pm and he fell 40 metres to his death.
Sergeant Francis, a father of two, was a member of the Sydney-based 2nd Commando Regiment.
He was leading the group of nine other soldiers from the regiment on a two-week mountain and cold-weather survival exercise. His group had been in the Grand Plateau since Sunday.
He had climbed in other parts of the world, including in the Himalayas.
"When I asked the guys about his experience, they told me he had more experience than the rest of the group combined," Mr Taylor said.
The area was reasonably dangerous at this time of year, and he had been surprised the soldier had not been roped up to other troops or wearing a helmet as he probed for crevasses, he said.
"If he was wearing a rope he may have only fallen two metres, not 40. I wouldn't have been comfortable without a rope on."
A square metre of the snow bridge, which was 50 centimetres to one metre thick, gave way around the soldier, who fell into the crevasse that was "a black hole", Mr Taylor said.
Australian soldiers worked in vain to save their colleague's life after he fell, but Mr Taylor said he appeared to have major head injuries.
Local police officer Senior Constable Les Andrew said Sergeant Francis' wife was in Scotland.
Sergeant Francis' fellow troops, who pulled him out of the crevasse, showed little emotion shortly after the incident, but were helpful with investigations.
Australian Defence Force officials described Sergeant Francis as highly qualified and experienced in alpine, mountain and altitude activities.
"The soldier was recovered by his colleagues who administered first aid. Sadly they were unable to revive him," the Australian Defence Force said in a brief statement on Wednesday night.
Alpine guide Trevor Streat, who helped recover the body, said: "He was quite knocked around. He'd bounced off a few things on the way down."
Sergeant Francis had been lifted out of the crevasse by the soldiers by the time Mr Streat arrived.
"The army guys did a really good job of getting down to the guy. They had him back on the surface and were performing CPR on him when we arrived," Mr Streat told Radio New Zealand.
"We were able to add our oxygen bottle and defibrillator into the mix but of course that wasn't successful."
The area was reasonably dangerous, although plenty of people did pass through or around it.
"It wasn't unreasonable to be going in there," he said.
"Some of the crevasses were open. We have had a lot of snow and wind up there recently so some of the crevasses are bridged."
The group had been travelling unroped on small skis. It was a judgment call whether to travel roped together, Mr Streat said.
"Had they been roped, as long as people on the other end were on their game, it would have been safer."
The Australian Defence Force said it was investigating and the death had been referred to the coroner.
Fairfax New Zealand
