Those who have been desperately seeking Subiaco's missing mojo need search no more. I think I finally found it where it was lurking all along... right under the crisp, white chef's hat of one David Whitting.
A big call, perhaps. But Whitting's got big, capable, cheffy shoulders and he's not only producing superb food but he's plating it with panache. Clearly, he's got what it takes to lure punters back to the bottom end of Subi's Rokeby Road which has, of late, been languishing in the tumbleweed doldrums.
Whitting is the new head chef at the Subi Hotel, a culinary beacon of two decades for lovers of innovative pub food. And while his predecessors – Brad Burton and Ivan Mather – firmly put the venue on the gastropub map, Whitting has taken their excellent standards to dizzy new heights.
His way with milk-fed veal fillet and valhrona chocolate marquise is the perfect pick-me-up for Subi's bottom end.
Let's not give Whitting all the credit, though. His appointment - fresh from Guillaume Bistro and with a wealth of Michelin star experience behind him - comes on top of a recent refit of the historic corner pub, which became a fashionable drinking and dining venue after its first big revamp in 1994.
And its passionate long time owners - Michael and Judy Monaghan, who are tantamount to hospitality royalty in Perth - have, once again, put together a fabulously efficient team overseen by Cat Cahill.
It was all running as smoothly as a Southern drawl when wine-loving David Prestipino and I dropped in for a quick lunch. We were shown to a table on the sunny restaurant terrace overlooking Hay Street, which – in real estate terms – had a very strategic location, location, location.
Indeed, there was some "see and be seen action" with another prominent Perth hotelier, Peter Prendiville – who could also be deemed hospitality royalty – occupying a prime front row table.
It's always encouraging when the curious opposition pops in for a peek.
But, for David and I, the best and most colourful action was on the plate - a series of vivid creations that could have been thrown together by New York style icon, Iris Apfel. If the name's not familiar, google her and you'll see what I mean. Think oversized glasses, bright - almost garish - colours and plenty of chutzpah.
Whitting's plates were the culinary equivalent, fairly brimming with chutzpah. It came as no surprise that he worked at Le Bernardin, a three Michelin star restaurant in NYC where Apfel struts her gorgeous stuff.
Imagine the "wake-the-dead" impact of orange fennel escabache (thanks to saffron) against a simple fishy background – a row of fresh Albany sardines. How artistic. As for audacity, chutzpah's cousin, there was oodles of that in black ash tortellini stuffed with silky potato. How can you make black food pretty? Whitting pulled it off with delicate yellow violets dramatically contrasting the squid-ink black of the pasta.
He's also a playful show off. Bells and whistles went mad with his White Rocks veal when an ethereal, but flavour intense, horseradish emulsion seemed to have just wafted onto the plate. It added a touch of whimsy to a smoked potato side. What happened to the famous bangers and mash I hear you ask?
Well, according to the tut-tutting waitstaff, some punters are ordering that old dish in the front bar and sneaking it into the restaurant. As good as the signature mash was in its day, I say roll over and welcome the smoky flavoured dollops of creamed, almost liquid potato – the new king of pub grub. Yes, there was a knuckle-biting moment but it was all about flavours and textures and the combo of earthy forest mushroom mix meeting buttery veal.
Knuckle biting descended into an almost shameless display of emotion when 'Winestein' bit into his pork belly – a sliver of Berkshire porker rolled into a smooth, stunning and perfectly-sized package. As for the puffed up crackling, I may have once tasted something that good, but I can't remember when. There was apple in there too and some sharpness in warrigal greens. This dish best sums up what makes the new menu so damned appealing. Pork belly is on every menu in town but nowhere else is it given the respect that it is accorded here. And, given what went into the dish, it was a steal at $37.
Desserts were equally astonishing. Chocolate marquise came in a rich and shiny square of layered bliss, with a nicely viscous scoop of jersey milk ice cream and a goat's cheese marshmallow on top. The point of difference – in flavour and presentation -- was a translucent shard of rosemary glass.
A deconstructed honey and macadamia parfait had – interestingly – a piece of bark as its inspiration. A wisp of honey tuille seemed suspended above two creamy orbs on a bed of gingerbread earth, which tasted as good as it looked. If you can't get your head around that just run, don't walk, to make a booking.
You'd be doing yourself – and Subi – a big favour.
16.5/20
0-10 Don't waste your money
11-15 Worth a look
16-20 Put it on your bucket list
Subiaco Hotel
465 Hay St, Subiaco WA 6008, Australia
Phone: (08) 9381 3069
Rating: 16.5/20
Cuisine: upmarket gastropub food
Prices: entrees: $14 to $24
Larger plates: $28 to $42
Desserts: $15 to $182
Features: internet and phone bookings.
Chef: David Whitting
Owners: The Monaghan family
Cards accepted: Visa, Mastercard, EFTPOS
Opening hours:
Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday: 7am – Midnight
Thursday, Friday & Saturday: 7am – 1am
Sunday: 7am – Midnight
